Have a stubborn haired client, looking for advice!

Question

I've colored this client's hair multiple times, and it always looks good when they leave, but it just doesn't stick. I've tried lots of different brands and types of color at this point. I also know that red is a tough color to get to stick, but I just don't really know what else to try. Her hair is pretty fine, but just doesn't want to hold color. Any tips or brand suggestions are greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Answer 1

There are a few reasons why the color just doesn't "stick".

If the hair is grey, you'll need to use 20-30 volume developer. This will cause the cuticle to open so the color molecules can reach the cortex layer of the hair.

If the hair is too porous, usually described as being damaged, the cuticle layer is open too wide and needs to be closed after depositing color. For this, I'd apply and process your color, then finish with a clear demi or semi permanent color. Always rinse with cool water.

The products your client uses at home makes a big difference as well. Make sure they are using a low pH shampoo and conditioner.

I'd love to see a follow up to find out what works.

Answer 2

The questions you should asked yourself are: what is the client natural color? Are you depositing color onto her natural color To achieve red results or do I need to lift her her to deposit the red toner? What is my client using at home in between salons visits to maintain her color?

10-20 deposit

20-30 2-3 lifts

30-40 3-4 lifts

lightener with a booster to achieve beyond 2-3 lifts

red is beginning Brown (level 4 to 6)medium red hair, you cannot deposit Red on color 1-6 if your looking for a bright Red/Fire engine Result, you have to lift the hair first and then deposit the red toner. At level 6 you can deposit, however, it might not be the desired result, I would slightly lift the hair 20 volume to deposit and lift in two processes and pay close attention to the client hair while processing to achieve the result the client and you desire. If the client need a hair cut or pre color treatment beforehand, I would cut the hair first, pre color treatment second, and then the color Process. The 20 volume will cast out the natural medium red of clients hair and allow you to deposit the desired red toner. Take level 6 to level 7, one level lift, deposit the red. Also, check to see if your client uses box over the counter color, if so it is an ingredient in over the counter colors the counter act against professional color lines.