Kay C. answered 05/02/25
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There's a lot to learn about fitting a sewing pattern to your body type, but one of the most commonly misunderstood aspects is which size of paper pattern to buy! Turning over the envelope of a paper pattern to see the pattern sizing in a shop, or if you're shopping online clicking the images over and over, can be frustrating for a new sewing enthusiast! We will use the example of a shirt or dress pattern.
Patterns Are Sized in Groups
The major commercial patterns are organized into size groups. Your size will be in the package with other sizes. You only need to determine which size group you need and you can make that pattern yours. If you're buying a pattern online, it's similar: Select the size group and click Buy! Later, you'll tackle which size to cut out.
Individual Sizing
Which size number to pick?! The first step is to take down your measurements! Plan a session with a tape measure, notepad, and pencil. Note your measurements. (Which one? More later.) Remember that measurements are just numbers, and so are size. There are many tricks to making clothing fit you in a flattering way no matter your size or shape. The second step is to have those numbers with you when you shop for a paper pattern.
My Individual Pattern
Sewing patterns are based on key fitting points. One of these is bust size. Many are surprised to learn that bust size doesn't refer to the cup size of an undergarment or bra size. Instead, sewing patterns are based on your body frame size. (A famous example is the American country musician Dolly Parton, who has a small frame but a large bust.) The bust measurement that matters most for sewing patterns is at the level of your armpits. Wrap the tape measure under your armpits and hold the end in the middle of your chest. Is the tape measure even, meaning does it wrap all around your body at about the height of your armpits? Hold it evenly. It's too tight if it stretches your skin; it's too loose if the tape measure slides down. When everything's good, record that number.
These aren't all the measurements you'll need, but for purchasing the pattern itself this is the most important, accurate measurement to use.
Happy sewing!